Frequently Asked Questions ::

This section addresses some of the more common problems players may encounter, and suggests some remedies.

My pegs are sticking (or slipping). What can I do?

Normal usage will eventually cause both the peg and the peg hole to wear, which may result in the pegs slipping or sticking, making tuning difficult. Ordinary chalk, applied to the areas of contact between the peg and peg box (which show up as shiny areas on the peg shaft), can help provide more grip. The operation of pegs that stick or are difficult to rotate may be improved by the use of peg dope or lead from a soft graphite pencil applied to the contact areas. Eventually, pegs may wear to the extent that replacement pegs will need to be fitted by a qualified repair person.

How can I tell if the bridge is on straight?

The feet of a properly cut bridge should follow the contour of the top perfectly, with no gaps. The fit ofthe bridge feet is critical because they serve as the conduit for transmitting vibrations between the strings and the rest of the instrument. If a bridge is tipped, the feet of the bridge will no longer be flush and in full contact with the top.

The bridge should be positioned so that the back side of the bridge (the side facing the tailpiece) is perpendicular to the top or belly of the instrument. The slightly beveled and breasted contour of the side facing the tailpiece can impart the illusion of the bridge being slightly tipped backwards; however, the back of the bridge should still be perfectly straight.

How can I tell if my bridge is in the right place?

While there are more precise methods of determining proper bridge location, an approximate placement can be achieved by aligning the feet of the bridge between the inner notches of the f-holes. If the bridge has been knocked off, the instrument, do not attempt to replace the bridge before first checking to see that the instrument is undamaged and that the soundpost has not fallen. When in doubt, have the instrument checked by a qualified repair person. Never glue the bridge to the instrument.

How do I straighten my bridge?

A relatively safe technique for straightening a bridge is to carefully pinch the string right next to the bridge between thumb and forefinger. By squeezing the fingers together and rolling them against the bridge, lateral pressure is applied against the top face of the bridge, pushing it slightly backwards (or forwards, depending on which side the pressure needs to be applied). Repeat with each string, in turn, until the bridge is once again perpendicular. If the bridge is significantly warped, have the instrument serviced promptly, before the bridge collapses or breaks. Better to have avoided this situation in the first place, by having checked that the bridge was perpendicular after each tuning; it is easier (and less traumatic) to correct a slight bridge lean, than have to address a situation where the bridge is substantially tilted and the feet are no longer in full contact with the top.

When do I need to change strings?

Strings will eventually lose their original responsiveness. Replace aging strings at regular intervals, commensurate with use. For some players, it may be a few months; for others, a few years. A general rule of thumb is to change strings every six months or so.

How do I change the strings on my instrument?

Replace strings one at a time, to prevent the soundpost from falling, and reduce stress on the instrument itself. Before removing the old strings, inspect the area around the nut and bridge; if the strings are being pinched, or have cut deeply into the grooves (they may even be flush with the top of the nut or bridge!), take the instrument to a qualified repair person for service. The strings should rest roughly a third of the way into the grooves. After removing the old string, check the grooves in the nut and bridge for wear or sharp edges. A bit of soft pencil lead applied in the grooves will reduce friction and help the string slide smoothly over thebridge or nut. When string adjusters are not being used, pass replacement strings through the tailpiece holes from underneath the tailpiece. The string should then extend straight from the tailpiece hole, over the saddle or fret, to the bridge - do not thread the string back through the ball or loop at the end of the string. Wind the string on the pegs so that the string passes over the peg and not under it, and progresses from the peg hole towards the peg box walls. Make sure that the string does not overlap or cross over itself, nor contact the peg box wall. Whether steel, nylon, or gut, take the time to gradually bring the string up to pitch. Avoid over-tuning, which may damage the strings, and guard against the top of the bridge being pulled forwards as new strings are being brought up to pitch.

Do I need to use string adjusters?

String adjusters, or fine tuners, need only be used when steel core strings are installed on an instrument. The relative elasticity of gut and synthetic core strings obviates the need for fine tuners with these more pliant core materials. E-strings in synthetic or gut core violin sets typically have a metal core, and E-string adjusters should always be installed with these strings. For ease of tuning, many educators do request four fine tuners regardless of the type of string being used. Special wide slot string adjusters are commonly available for synthetic and gut core strings. Alternatively, the slot on a standard string adjuster may be carefully spread to accommodate the slightly thicker synthetic or gut core strings.

My string adjusters are stuck!

Often, when a string adjuster screw will no longer turn, it is because the arm of the adjuster has been fully extended. Care must be taken that the arm of the adjuster below the tailpiece is not pressing against the top of the instrument itself. To remedy the situation, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise, and then raise the string back to pitch by using the peg. Usage of string adjusters which have protective sleeves (Buschmann tuners), will help prevent damage from the string adjuster. Another possibility is that the adjuster simply needs to be lubricated. The screw threads could also be cross-threaded, or the screw shaft may be bent; if so, the string adjuster should be replaced.

When does my fingerboard need to be replaced?

Fingerboards can eventually wear out or become warped, and need to be replaned, scraped or replaced. Signs of wear include pits from fingers, longitudinal grooves from string wear, or overall warpage. The instrument may then buzz, or intonation problems may be experienced.

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