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This section addresses some of the more common problems players may encounter, and suggests some remedies. My pegs are sticking (or slipping). What can I do? Normal usage will eventually cause both the peg and the peg hole to wear, which may result in the pegs slipping or sticking, making tuning difficult. Ordinary chalk, applied to the areas of contact between the peg and peg box (which show up as shiny areas on the peg shaft), can help provide more grip. The operation of pegs that stick or are difficult to rotate may be improved by the use of peg dope or lead from a soft graphite pencil applied to the contact areas. Eventually, pegs may wear to the extent that replacement pegs will need to be fitted by a qualified repair person. How can I tell if the bridge is on straight? The feet of a properly cut bridge should follow the contour of the top perfectly, with no gaps. The fit ofthe bridge feet is critical because they serve as the conduit for transmitting vibrations between the strings and the rest of the instrument. If a bridge is tipped, the feet of the bridge will no longer be flush and in full contact with the top. The bridge should be positioned so that the back side of the bridge (the side facing the tailpiece) is perpendicular to the top or belly of the instrument. The slightly beveled and breasted contour of the side facing the tailpiece can impart the illusion of the bridge being slightly tipped backwards; however, the back of the bridge should still be perfectly straight. How can I tell if my bridge is in the right place? While there are more precise methods of determining proper bridge location, an approximate placement can be achieved by aligning the feet of the bridge between the inner notches of the f-holes. If the bridge has been knocked off, the instrument, do not attempt to replace the bridge before first checking to see that the instrument is undamaged and that the soundpost has not fallen. When in doubt, have the instrument checked by a qualified repair person. Never glue the bridge to the instrument. How do I straighten my bridge? A relatively safe technique for straightening a bridge is to carefully pinch the string right next to the bridge between thumb and forefinger. By squeezing the fingers together and rolling them against the bridge, lateral pressure is applied against the top face of the bridge, pushing it slightly backwards (or forwards, depending on which side the pressure needs to be applied). Repeat with each string, in turn, until the bridge is once again perpendicular. If the bridge is significantly warped, have the instrument serviced promptly, before the bridge collapses or breaks. Better to have avoided this situation in the first place, by having checked that the bridge was perpendicular after each tuning; it is easier (and less traumatic) to correct a slight bridge lean, than have to address a situation where the bridge is substantially tilted and the feet are no longer in full contact with the top. When do I need to change strings? Strings will eventually lose their original responsiveness. Replace aging strings at regular intervals, commensurate with use. For some players, it may be a few months; for others, a few years. A general rule of thumb is to change strings every six months or so. Continue