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How do I change the strings on my instrument? Replace strings one at a time, to prevent the soundpost from falling, and reduce stress on the instrument itself. Before removing the old strings, inspect the area around the nut and bridge; if the strings are being pinched, or have cut deeply into the grooves (they may even be flush with the top of the nut or bridge!), take the instrument to a qualified repair person for service. The strings should rest roughly a third of the way into the grooves. After removing the old string, check the grooves in the nut and bridge for wear or sharp edges. A bit of soft pencil lead applied in the grooves will reduce friction and help the string slide smoothly over thebridge or nut. When string adjusters are not being used, pass replacement strings through the tailpiece holes from underneath the tailpiece. The string should then extend straight from the tailpiece hole, over the saddle or fret, to the bridge - do not thread the string back through the ball or loop at the end of the string. Wind the string on the pegs so that the string passes over the peg and not under it, and progresses from the peg hole towards the peg box walls. Make sure that the string does not overlap or cross over itself, nor contact the peg box wall. Whether steel, nylon, or gut, take the time to gradually bring the string up to pitch. Avoid over-tuning, which may damage the strings, and guard against the top of the bridge being pulled forwards as new strings are being brought up to pitch. Do I need to use string adjusters? String adjusters, or fine tuners, need only be used when steel core strings are installed on an instrument. The relative elasticity of gut and synthetic core strings obviates the need for fine tuners with these more pliant core materials. E-strings in synthetic or gut core violin sets typically have a metal core, and E-string adjusters should always be installed with these strings. For ease of tuning, many educators do request four fine tuners regardless of the type of string being used. Special wide slot string adjusters are commonly available for synthetic and gut core strings. Alternatively, the slot on a standard string adjuster may be carefully spread to accommodate the slightly thicker synthetic or gut core strings. My string adjusters are stuck! Often, when a string adjuster screw will no longer turn, it is because the arm of the adjuster has been fully extended. Care must be taken that the arm of the adjuster below the tailpiece is not pressing against the top of the instrument itself. To remedy the situation, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise, and then raise the string back to pitch by using the peg. Usage of string adjusters which have protective sleeves (Buschmann tuners), will help prevent damage from the string adjuster. Another possibility is that the adjuster simply needs to be lubricated. The screw threads could also be cross-threaded, or the screw shaft may be bent; if so, the string adjuster should be replaced. When does my fingerboard need to be replaced? Fingerboards can eventually wear out or become warped, and need to be replaned, scraped or replaced. Signs of wear include pits from fingers, longitudinal grooves from string wear, or overall warpage. The instrument may then buzz, or intonation problems may be experienced. Continue